It’s not just a case of slapping on a bit more moisturiser, in fact that may be the very thing that’s causing the problem!
From a mature client “It feels like I can never get enough moisture into my skin”, from a sensitive client “Everything I use makes me breakout”, from a client with adult acne or rosacea “I know my skin must be oily, but it feels so dry”, and from most clients “A few minutes after washing or cleansing and my face feels dry”.
To understand why moisturisers aren’t doing their job it’s best to understand the job they are supposed to do. The surface of our skin should act like a waterproof barrier, keeping our bodies natural water supply inside, but for genetically dry or sensitive skin, such as from dermatitis, the waterproof barrier is essentially damaged and the water evaporates.
So for those with genetically dry and sensitive skin, regular moisture creams are required. Moisture creams may also be needed during the temporary times of post treatment aftercare, during harsh cold winters and the low humidity of sunny holidays and air conditioning.
Yet moisturisers are probably the most purchased skin cream. So what happens when we use a moisturiser when our skin doesn’t really need it. Moisturisers are basically made up of water, lipids (fats) and protein, just like the outer layers of our skin. We normally start using light water based lotions. Our skin gets used to this artificial source of water very quickly, with that tight feeling after washing indicating to us that a richer cream needs to be used. But this isn’t true. Our skin gets lazier as we give it more cream, and those lines and wrinkles are becoming more visible.
We may well be moisturising our skin, but are we feeding it ? And how do you feed it when nothing seems to get through ? Gentle exfoliation and skin peels are the easiest methods of removing the dull and clogged surface layers, then simply start again by using special products to feed the deeper dermal layers of skin. And after a couple of skin cycles, taking around two months, you’ll have a skin surface to be proud of !
How ? There has to be a consistent feeding of the deeper layers to promote healthy collagen and elastin, which will eventually become the healthy waterproof barrier needed as our outer skin.
Ok so we’re going to feed our skin, but how’s that going to stop lines and wrinkles ? This new fed skin looks and feels plumper and more refined than before, and healthy skin holds its integrity on our face, not so pulled down by gravity, and not so readily creasing. Lines around the eyes softening, on the forehead smoothing, those delightful nasolabial (nose to mouth) lines naturally filling… though they haven’t really, it’s the skin of the cheeks firming that’s having them not drooping and forming
There’s a current wave within the skin treatment industry of resisting anti-ageing treatments (such as fillers, surgery and botox) in favour of treatments that have you looking the most naturally radiant for your age, and this is where healthy fed skin is a goal.
I stock, and personally use, RégimA Skin Treatments to sort out my developing lines and wrinkles. I’m 47 so they were there ! RégimA offer Peel & Heal, a potent yet gentle lactic and malic acid skin peel which is suitable for use on all skin types (including sensitive and active acne), and skin colours, all year round.
After my initial bout of skin peels I adopted an easy homecare routine. The Rejuvoderm night cream is a gentle 7.5% lactic and malic acid skin peel, also containing Retinol, pure Vitamin A for skin smoothing, regenerating, and stimulating new collagen. Vitamin B5 for rapid healing, cell renewal, and it helps skin to retain moisture. All washed off in the morning with the lovely Hydroactive Cleansing Gel. I then use a day cream and for me, that’s about it. Oh and I love Quantum Elastin and sometimes mix it up with that too !
Of course if my skin were more damaged, dry, wrinkly, spotty or dull there’s other bits for me to add in, but I’m not actually using a moisture cream, nor for me am I needing an eye cream, which is odd, as that’s where my lines and wrinkles were showing.
And my clients from the beginning, the mature one who couldn’t get enough moisture into her skin now comments that she hardly needs to use any product as her skin feels so quenched, it’s looking much softer and smoother too. The sensitive one, well her comment was censored as she’s “Great thanks, it’s good stuff!”, and I replied agreeing that it was indeed good stuff. And from my clients with adult acne and rosacea, after the initial skin rebellion to being treated, we have skin under control, being treated for excess sebum, acne and hormonal responses and pigmentation.
by Lisa Henning. Published in ABC Magazine – Sussex